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» Fan Shroud Installation Instructions

KO Racing Fan Shroud Installation Instructions

These instructions are complete and accurate to the best of my knowledge, if you notice any inaccuracies, please let me know by emailing me at techinfo@koracing.net.

Note: What you do to your car is your business, and you take full reponsibility for your own actions. KO Racing and Kris Osheim cannot be held legally liable for any problems associated with the use of these directions.

A general note about sockets and wrenches:

When selecting a socket, it is ideal to use the shortest combination of extensions and sockets available to reach the desired fastener. The longer the socket with extension, the more likely it is that you will cause a secondary torque along that socket and extension that will cause the socket to want to remove itself from the nut (often damaging the sides of the nut as it comes off). Also, the use of 12 point (12pt) sockets is not recommended unless there is no alternative as it has a greater chance of rounding the head of a nut or bolt (that may have been removed sometime in the past and already not have perfectly formed edges). The use of a 12pt box end wrench, however, is preferable due to the fact that the room that you can swing a wrench through may be limited, and being able to move it 1/12th of a turn requires less space than 1/6th of a turn, and torque control with a combination wrench is much better than with a socket and ratchet.

There are several inch sized wrenches that are very close in size to metric sizes. The KO Racing Engine Lid Fan Shroud includes standard (inch sized) hardware for the attachment of the fans (1/4-20) with nuts that use a 7/16" tool. This is very close in size to a 11mm head fastener, and you may be able to use an 11mm wrench or socket instead of the 7/16" wrench.

Tools required:

  • Phillips Screwdriver
  • 5/32" Hex Key (Allen Wrench)
  • Ratchets:
    • 1/4" or 3/8" drive
  • 1/4" or 3/8" drive sockets:
    • 10mm std depth
  • Match sticks or tooth picks (maybe)
  • 7/16" Combination wrench
  • Drill with socket adapter and 1/4" socket

Parts Required:

  • 1 KO Racing Engine Lid Fan Shroud (you wouldn't be using these instructions with another fan shroud would you? ;-))
    NOTE: In the following instructions, when a bolt is referred to as a "10mm" for example, this indicates the size of the wrench required to remove it, not the shank size as is standard.
    Click any image for a larger size.

    NOTE: This product removes the stock rain tray and replaces it with a dual fan shroud that doesn't have any feature for mounting the stock engine lid prop rod. You will need a support strut of some kind with this product.

    Step 1:

    Remove the 4 10mm fasteners holding the engine lid to the hinges on the car. Remove the engine lid with the help of another person as it is extremely awkward to do by yourself, and the likelihood of messing up your nice paint is much greater. While it isn't 100% necessary to remove the engine lid from the car, I recommend it for several reasons:

    • Less likely to damage the vehicle or your paint job by dropping something on it.
    • Less hassle dealing with an engine lid that has no support any longer (assuming you don't have an engine lid prop rod other than the stock one).
    • Easier access to the fasteners on the engine lid.

    Step 2:

    Place the engine lid on a flat surface painted side down with a soft towel on it to keep from marring the paint (like a towel on the dining room table -- if the wife/parent/significant other lets you). Unscrew the 12 phillips head fasteners and 2 10mm bolts that retain the stock rain tray onto the engine lid.
    NOTE:The engine lid is made of essentially fiberglass and is very easy to strip -- do not use power tools for removing or reinstalling the phillips head fasteners as you can easily strip the holes even when using hand tools.

    Step 3:

    Assemble the two fans onto the fan shroud. The stack up should go like this: 1/4-20 SS Socket Button head bolts (qty. 8) through from the high polish side of the shroud, then slip the (8) nylon spacers over the bolt, then the bolt should pass through the fans, then the SS 1/4-20 serrated flange nuts on the end of the bolts. Note the orientation of the wire coming off of the back of the fans as you place them into the shroud so that they line up with the cutout.

    Step 4:

    Tighten the nuts down fairly snug.

    Step 5:

    Using the wire provided with the fan shroud, strip and crimp the '+' leads of the fans together and to the red wire. Do the same for the '-' leads and crimp them together with the black wire. Install the grommet provided into the hole in the lower left of the shroud and pass the red and black wires through.

    Step 6:

    Remove the rubber bumpers from the rain tray and install them into the fan shroud. You may want to deform the holes in the KO Racing fan shroud with a flat blade screw driver to more easily install the rubber bumpers. Go to your car and see where the rubber bumpers make contact with the car at the rear corners of the engine bay. Clean this area with alcohol and remove the backing from the rectangular rubber squares, and install them in the spots where the rubber bumpers make contact.

    Step 7:

    Install the KO Racing fan shroud onto the engine lid. Use the 12 phillips head screws and 2 10mm bolts to attach the fan shroud. Only tighten snug with hand tools -- DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. NOTE:The engine lid is made of essentially fiberglass and is very easy to strip -- do not use power tools for removing or reinstalling the phillips head fasteners as you can easily strip the holes even when using hand tools.

    If you have some holes that are stripped (the fastener just spins and never feels snug), you can try a quick fix by cutting a piece of wooden toothpick and placing it into the hole. This should cause the screw to have something to "bite" into and allow it to push against the side of the hole better. You can try filling the hole with JB weld or body filler and re-drilling a hole and threading the screw in -- a little more involved. Or, if you want a more permanent fix, KO Racing can provide you with a repair kit that includes fasteners, washers, and press-in threaded inserts for all 12 holes for $20 if you would prefer.

    Step 8:

    Using a drill with a 1/4" socket on it, drive the self drilling, self tapping sheet metal screws through the 3 holes at the bottom of the shroud into the engine lid reinforcement.

    Step 9:

    Install the engine lid back onto the car being very careful to not drop or damage the engine lid or paint job of the car. Have the bolts ready near the hinges so you can start them while holding up the engine lid. This is really a 2 person job -- perhaps a way to spend some quality time with that special someone. Snug down the 4 bolts and check alignment of the engine lid with the surrounding panels by closling the lid. Tighten the bolts once alignment is satisfactory.

    Step 10:

    Adjust the fitment of the engine lid by screwing in, or loosening the rubber bumpers to adjust the closed height compared to the surrounding panels.

    Step 11:
    At this point, the fan shroud is installed, and the wiring needs to be hooked up to the car.

    ENJOY!!

    Final Notes:


    • There are several different ways to wire the fans but all should use a relay that switches voltage directly from a battery source (like the large double bolted '+' lead in the rear engine bay fuse box).
    • The fans will pull over 15 amps at startup, so you need at least a 20 amp relay and fuse.
    • The simplest switch source for a relay would be switched 12V from the ignition switch.

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