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» Converting a MKII with EHPS (Electro Hydraulic Power Steering) to manual steering

Converting a MKII with EHPS (Electro Hydraulic Power Steering) to manual steering

These instructions are complete and accurate to the best of my knowledge, if you notice any inaccuracies, please let me know by emailing me at

Note: What you do to your car is your business, and you take full reponsibility for your own actions. KO Racing and Kris Osheim cannot be held legally liable for any problems associated with the use of these directions.

Parts needed:
Manual steering rack
Manual steering column/Ujoint
Manual Steering Tie Rods
Metal clamps for rubber boots on steering rack. (or zip ties)

Tools Needed:

    Ball joint puller
    Toyota Shop Manual (BGB)
    Metric socket Set
    Metric Box wrench Set
    Torque Wrench
    Crescent wrench (2 large ones)
    Breaker Bar
    Hole saw attachment for drill
    Dremel with fiberglass reinforced cutoff wheels, grindstone attachment
    2 jack stands
    Floor jack
    Drop light
    Ball Joint puller
    MityVac style pump
    Several rags and/or a catch basin
    Molybdenum Disulfide based grease (or similar product)

The reasons to convert to manual steering are threefold:
1) The electric motor can create interference aftermarket stereo systems.
2) The manual steering has better ďfeelĒ
3) It will considerably lighten the car.

This write-up is intended to supplement the BGB procedures, and is not designed to be a stand-alone guide.

1) Jack the front of the car up as high as possible, support with jack stands, and remove the jack.

2) Center the steering wheel as per the BGB procedure, and secure it with the seatbelt.

3) Remove the plastic shielding from under the steering rack/front suspension

4) Siphon the fluid from the power steering fluid reservoir, using the pump.

5)Disconnect the hydraulic lines that run from behind the suspension cross member to the power steering rack and allow the fluid to drain onto your rags, or into the catch basin.

6) Unclamp the rubber boots on the steering rack, and slide them towards the wheels. Use the 2 crescent wrenches to detach the tie rods from the steering rack.

7) Remove the tie rods and sent them aside.

8) Using a 12mm socket and breaker bar, loosen the four bolts that secure the support brackets for the power steering rack. Remove the bolts and brackets.

9) There is a brace that runs just to the driverís side of the power hydraulic lines, itís welded to the body on top, and bolted to the cross member at the bottom. Unbolt this to allow some free play.

10) Remove the spare tire and plastic cover over the steering column in the front trunk. Unplug the power steering motor. (2 plugs)

11) Unbolt the universal joint from the power steering rack inside the front trunk.

12) Unbolt and remove the other end of the steering column from inside the driverís foot-well, just above the brake/clutch pedals.

13) Remove the steering rack and column. The rack will tend to hang up where the hydraulic lines cross the suspension cross member. It is tight, but it WILL come off. (You could use a 21mm socket with a breaker bar to remove the banjo bolt on the end of the rack, which would probably make this part easier.)

14) Now you have the rack and steering column off the car. Youíll need to use your hole-saw and Dremel to enlarge the keyhole shaped hole in the body where the U-joint goes through. The U-Joint on the manual steering rack extends down through the body, and connects to the rack underneath the car. The power steering one connects inside the front trunk. I made the hole roughly oval, and wide enough so the u-joint could turn freely, without hitting the sides of the hole.

15) Now itís time to put the steering column through from the driverís foot-well to the front trunk, but do not attach it to the rest of the steering column yet.

16) Slide the universal joint onto the end of the steering column in the front trunk, and loosely fasten the 12mm bolt that secures it to the column.

17) From underneath the car, lift the manual steering rack into place and support it. You will note that the driverís side support bracket has a 90 degree bend in it, this fits over the corner of the rack, opposite from the part that the universal joint slides over. The rounded portion of the rack fits into the bracket welded onto the underside of the body.

18) Secure the support bracket loosely, with the 2 12mm bolts

19) Secure the passenger side support bracket.

20) Slide the universal joint over the knob with splines that projects from the top of the steering rack and loosely secure it.

21) Install the new (manual steering) tie rods.

22) Torque everything down to spec, according to the BGB.

23) We gave the car a rough alignment, by sighting down the body to ensure the front wheels were even with the rear wheels and measuring the space between the front of the front tires, and the rear of the front tires, which tells you the toe-in.

24) Replace the plastic undershield

25) Take the car for an alignment

26) Enjoy the feeling of being in touch with your front wheels for the first time :)

power steering P/S Lines ps motor
Full Power Steering Assembly Hydraulic lines under car Electric Motor and Universal Joint
ps opening bigger opening steering racks
Power Steering Opening Opening enlarged to accomodate manual steering ujoint Driver's end of racks
racks full racks universal joints
Power Steering rack vs Manual Full view of both racks Universal Joints
ujoints Columns columns
Universal joint close-up Steering Column Comparo Steering columns, different angle


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